care sheets

Heterodon nasicus

DESCRIPTION

 The Western Hognose Snake is a short, stocky snake with keeled scales and an upturned snout, which it uses for burrowing. It is famous for its defensive behaviour which includes; hissing loudly, flattening its neck like a Cobra and rolling on to its back and playing dead.

 Western Hognose Snakes are back-fanged and mildly venomous but not to the extent where they are considered a danger to humans. Bites may cause localised swelling and discomfort although the Western Hognose will rarely bite people.

 The Western Hognose can be found wild in the prairies of central U.S.A. and in parts of Southern Canada and Northern Mexico where it hunts amphibians and the occasional small lizard or rodent.

 The Western Hognose Snake is an egg-laying species which reaches a maximum length of 3 feet.

PURCHASING

 As with most snake species, captive bred Western Hognose Snakes tend to fare better in captivity than wild caught snakes. Wild caught Hognose Snakes can be difficult to feed and may have a strong preference for amphibians.

 Western Hognose Snakes are bred in fairly large numbers these days but tend to be a bit more expensive than other popular colubrids such as King and Rat Snakes.

SEX

 Sexing Western Hognose Snakes is relatively easy providing you have other Hognoses to compare with. Males have longer tails. If you only have one snake it is best to have it sexed by a vet or you can probe it yourself if you are familiar with the technique.

HOUSING

 Western Hognose Snakes in captivity need a vivarium or converted, well ventilated aquarium measuring 24"x12"x12", this will be suitable for the duration of the snakes life. They also fare well in well ventilated and secure plastic tubs, such as underbed storage boxes. Babies will feel more secure in a plastic shoe box until they reach a length of more then 18".

 Whether you house your Hognose in a wooden vivarium with glass doors, a large aquarium with a well ventilated lid, or a plastic storage box, it must be well built and escape proof. Like all snakes, Western Hognose snakes are escape artists and are small enough to be easily lost.

SUBSTRATE AND FURNISHINGS

 2" of Aspen wood shavings makes a great substrate for the Western Hognose and allows the snake to burrow. A rock or two can be used for decoration and will also provide your snake with something to rub itself against when it sheds it's skin. Pieces of driftwood and plastic plants can be used to create a more attractive display and a more interesting environment for your Hognose.

 A couple of hiding places should be provided to give your snake places to retreat to in privacy and to feel safe and secure. Hides can be made by carefully arranging pieces of bark, or slate or hides specially made for reptiles can be bought from the majority of shops that sell snakes. If you don't mind what the hides look like you can use margarine or ice-cream tubs or flower pots with an entrance hole cut in the top or side. The hide should be just large enough for your snake to fit inside and no larger.

 Water must be provided in a shallow, sturdy, straight sided dish. It should be large enough for the snake to bathe in. Snakes often like to bathe before they shed their skins or they may bathe to adjust their body temperature. Make sure to only half fill the water dish so that it does'nt overflow when the snake gets in. The substrate must remain dry. Water should be changed every 2 to 3 days.

HEATING AND TEMPERATURE

 A heat mat can be used to warm the substrate and should cover half the vivarium floor. Heat mats are an excellent choice of heating for Western Hognose snakes, and mats specially made for reptiles are widely available in shops that stock reptiles, and online. Always follow the manufacturers installation instructions as they may vary.

 Heat mats warm the substrate from below and are very effective at keeping snakes warm because snakes absorb heat from below. The heat mat should be controlled by a thermostat to keep the temperature at ground level at 28 to 32 degrees centigrade, leaving the ground of half the vivarium unheated. A bulb can be used to illuminate the vivarium and raise air temperature if necessary. The cool end of the enclosure should be 22 to 26c. Allow an overall drop of 4 to 8 degrees at night. If using a bulb for heat it should be fixed to the vivarium roof above the heat mat and must be turned off at night. 12hrs on and 12hrs off is fine or you may like to mirror the seasonal daylight changes they experience in the wild. The heat mat should be left on 24 hours. Bulbs above 25watts should be covered by a bulb guard to prevent the snake from getting burned. For ease use a plug-in timer to control lighting. If no extra heat is needed a flourescent tube can be used to illuminate the vivarium during the day as these give off very little heat. Always set up and test your heating with thermometers before bringing your new snake home.

 There are several other ways and methods of heating snake vivariums including ceramic heaters, hot rocks, heat cables and even keeping the room temperature high during the day. In my opinion, heat mats in conjunction with a bulb works best but the important thing is that, whichever method you use, the temperature can be easily controlled. Vivariums that are too hot or cold can have negative affects on the health and feeding patterns of your snake. Always use a thermometer to check temperatures.

HUMIDITY

 Humidity should be in the range of 45% to 65%. When you notice your Hognose is due to shed its skin it will help to raise the humidity by 10% , by mist spraying or using a larger water bowl until your Western Hognose Snake has shed its skin. Alternatively you could make a humid hide out of a plastic box lined with damp paper towels and placed in the warmest part of the vivarium. This way your snake can choose to go to a more humid place if it wishes, leaving the rest of the vivarium drier.

FEEDING

 Western Hognose Snakes will live well on a diet of thawed, frozen mice in captivity.

 Feed 1 or 2 mice per week that are roughly the same diameter as the thickest part of your snake. Snakes under 18 months may need twice this amount.

 Digestion varies between individuals and if you keep an eye on and weigh your pet at regular intervals you can learn to judge for yourself what your snake needs. It is also very helpful to keep feeding records.

 Food can be left on the floor of the vivarium or can be wriggled in front of the snake using forceps( The Western Hognose may chase the prey with its mouth agape ), remembering to offer the head end. Snakes usually swallow prey head first but Hognoses often break this rule and will even swallow prey sideways.

HANDLING

 Don't handle or feed your Western Hognose Snake for about 10 days after bringing it home, this will allow it time to settle in. Short, regular handling sessions will help your snake get used to you. Western Hognose snakes nearly always grow into placid, friendly and handleable snakes.

 As with other snakes, avoid feeding your Western Hognose for at least 48 hours after it has fed.

CLEANING

 Faeces should be removed from your Hogs vivarium when seen.

 Water dishes should be emptied, rinsed and refilled with clean water every 2-4 days and washed and disinfected with a reptile-safe disinfectant solution every week.

 The whole vivarium including furnishings should be cleaned and disinfected once a month. Any items you disinfect must be rinsed thoroughly with water and completely dry before re-introducing to the vivarium.

 To disinfect wood or rocks, cover in aluminium foil and bake in the oven at 110 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes and allow to cool.

  FACT: WESTERN HOGNOSE SNAKES HAVE THE CUTEST BABIES IN THE REPTILE KINGDOM!